Sri Lanka’s ancient cities, from Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa to Sigiriya and the lesser-known Yapahuwa, hold over two thousand years of continuous civilisation in a remarkably compact geographic area. A specialist heritage guide turns a site visit from a list of ruins into a coherent historical narrative, explaining the engineering, religious significance and dynastic history behind what survives. Cycling or tuk tuk exploration suits the flatter sites like Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura particularly well. Early morning visits consistently offer both the best light and the fewest other visitors.